The ‘secret’ behind Long Beach’s rocky ledges

TINIAN — Long Beach located south of Blow Hole  is one of the prime destinations here, but there is more to it than meets the eye.

Easily accessible, Long Beach, or Unai Dankulo, is true to its name and is long stretch of white, sandy beach and crystal clear waters gently lapping on the shore.

But there is a “secret” behind the huge rocks and cliffs that border one end of the beach. My buddies Barnard, Susan and Edwin guided me to this secret spot on a leisurely tour one Sunday some weeks back. Picking our way gingerly among the rocks and avoiding getting wet from the splashing of the waves was no easy feat. Soon, we arrived at a huge cliff and I raised my eyebrows as we were obviously facing a dead end. Barnard then squatted and pointed to a very small opening at the bottom of the cliff.

We followed him as he started crawling through the very tight crevice. It was not big enough so we really had to crawl on our stomachs for a distance of about eight feet or so.  Fighting my fear of enclosed places, I crawled on, hugging my camera with one arm and groping my way with the other.

Soon, we emerged into the open. I caught my breath and gaped at the scenic hideaway that met my eyes.

Nestled amid pockets of sand between rocky cliffs and coral shelves was a private cove with fine white sand. Just perfect   if you want to get away from it all.

Crawling to the specific spot is the only way to get there, unless you want to brave the rough and treacherous waves and the sharp and slippery stones at the coral edge.

A huge hollow space with soft, fine sand beneath a large rock formation provides shelter for anyone who wants to just sit there and while the time away.

Tinian is not only rich in history. For the adventurous, the island has a hundred and one more special spots just waiting to be discovered.

The ‘secret’ behind Long Beach’s rocky ledges | around-the-island.

Mountaintop sunrise

THERE is no other spot on Saipan that provides a spectacular view of the sun rising each morning and setting each night than the peak of Mt. Tapochao, situated at 1,535 feet above sea level.

Time and again, we see wonderful photos posted  online portraying sunsets and sunrises taken on Mt. Tapochao, but getting up there to capture these wonders requires a four-wheel drive or an all-terrain vehicle, stamina and endurance if you want to walk, guts for the not-so-daring and those who are afraid of heights, warm clothing to ward off the cold if you want to capture the sunset or explore the place at night, and effort and commitment to get up real early to see the sunrise.

This may sound too challenging, but when you get to the top, your efforts will be worth it. Mt. Tapochao is the only spot on Saipan that offers an exhilarating, spectacular 360-degree panoramic view of the whole island.

A few yards away from the cross are markers narrating how Mt. Tapochao used to be the spot where the Japanese troops fired at American forces during the war.

Today is not just another regular day on Tapochao as hundreds of Roman Catholic devotees make the annual trek to the top of Saipan’s highest spot in observance of Good Friday.

Not everybody who joins the annual trek is a devotee. Some are just curious observers, or friends and family members who tag along. Others go up there to represent different organizations and distribute food and drinks to the “pilgrims.”

Take time out of your daily routine to take a whiff of fresh and cool mountain air as you make the trek to Mt. Tapochao today for whatever reason. It could be for religious or just to enjoy nature. And oh, a spectacular sunrise — hopefully if it doesn’t rain.

Mountaintop sunrise | around-the-island.

An afternoon at Tinian’s Shinto Shrine

TINIAN — A huge old gate standing in front of two old flame trees caught my attention when we went driving on the north field of this island one Sunday afternoon a few weeks back.

My companion, Tinian’s hot pepper entrepreneur Susan, drove fast on the rough and dusty road but willingly backed up the car when I asked if we could check the place out.

I’ve driven around Tinian’s North Field several in the past in a rented car and  visited the more popular spots, but that Sunday was different because I was with buddies who are Tinian residents. Gone was the usual apprehension and hesitancy to explore new and strange nooks that I always experienced in the past because I felt that I was with people who knew the place well.

Entering the clearance from the main gate, we came upon another torii Shinto gate and several other smaller shrines on both sides of the inner gate.

The Shinto Shrine gets a fair share of tourists, especially Japanese, every day. We passed by a couple of cars parked earlier but they had already left when we arrived and we had the place to ourselves.

We gingerly approached the place and felt that it was almost a sin to intrude and step on the hallowed grounds. Save for the chirping of some birds and other insects and the clicking of our shutters, the place was silent.

According to the barely readable information printed on a marker, the NKK Shinto Shrine was built next to a spur of the sugar railroad and its name suggests that it was built by the Nanyo Kohatsu Kaisha or NKK of the South Seas Development company in 1941.

From the marker, we also learned that the Japanese development on Tinian started sometime in 1926 when the NKK expanded its operations from Saipan. In 10 years time, about 80 percent of the island of Tinian was cultivating sugarcane. Tinian also embraced Japanese citizens and Japanese culture that time.

It was hard to imagine that once upon a time seven decades ago, ceremonial rites were regularly held on the very grounds where we were standing.

We were reluctant to leave but the sun was already dipping low on the horizon. I didn’t fancy staying after dark in the place.

We left the area with a certain connection to the past, rich with experiences. If you haven’t explored Tinian yet, you’re missing a lot. The island is filled with historical sites and scenic spots worth visiting.

Rendezvous with Rota’s feathered friends

ROTA — Down a twisting, dusty coral road on top of a sheer limestone cliffs on this island is one place I have been wanting to see for the past three years — the I’Chenchon Wildlife Reserve, more popularly known as the Rota Bird Sanctuary.

I heard a trip to Rota is never complete without a visit to its bird sanctuary, a designated wildlife conservation area. So, there I was finally one day last week, trying to capture everything as I stood mesmerized at the breathtaking view of the cliff from my perch on the lookout.

Unmindful of the scorching heat of the noonday sun, I ventured far down the end of the cemented steps, stopping every now and then to snap some photos.

The place was silent, save for the crashing of the waves on the rocks below.

If you look way down from the lookout, you will notice white objects scattered all over the thick greenery — so many of them in fact and I discovered those white objects where hundreds and hundreds of seabirds nesting.

I was nothing close to a professional photographer but I vowed to bring home some pictures.  After some minutes, hope of capturing those beautiful birds in my lens was almost gone as I was only armed with a 70-300mm lens for my Canon. Suddenly, out of the blue, one big bird seemed to sense my frustration and started flying toward where I and my two companions Doc Manny from Guam and agriculturist Ali were standing.

The bird slowed and stooped so low in a teasing manner, flew up and away and returned for another showdown. I was unprepared but I was able to press the shutter a few times with my camera before the bird finally decided enough was enough.

I was speechless with awe and would have wanted to stay longer but we were pressed for time. I had to be content with what few photos I got, promising to return if I get the chance.

I was told the best time to be at the bird sanctuary is before sunrise when the birds fly out to scout for food, or at sunset when they return. I got another quick chance to return to the bird sanctuary before I left for Saipan last Saturday which almost made me miss the plane.

The next time I get a chance to visit this ruggedly beautiful island, I will give anything to watch the birds either before they leave or when they return. Maybe by then, I will be equipped with better photography gadgets and enough know-how in capturing those lovely birds on camera. 

For more photos, please check out my facebook page HERE.

Intruders at Tinian’s ‘secret ’ lagoon

We had been driving on the long stretch of deserted road north of the dilapidated Japanese communications building when we came across a turn just beside the fenced military area on Tinian last Sunday afternoon.
The road was almost impossible to find behind thick weeds as high as four feet, but my buddies Susan, Ed and Barnard insisted that was what we were looking for — the road to Unai Chiget.
I got my first clear view of this majestic lagoon closeted amid lush vegetation and rocky cliffs from a thousand feet above when I went flying with Dr. Nathan to and from Tinian some weeks back, and I knew I would not rest until I step into that very spot. Facebook friends gave the lagoon a name when I posted the aerial photo I took.
Susan drove through the tall weeds when we could not find any “Don’t Enter” sign anywhere. The road curved and twisted menacingly and we could see no obvious signs of recent use. We had to get out of the vehicle several times to assess the situation if we could still go on, but I was determined to reach my destination, even if I had to crawl my way through.
The weeds thinned out when we reached the last portion of the seemingly impossible to find road and miraculously, there was a small clearing. With my cameras dangling from my neck, I followed Barnard who suddenly stopped short when he noticed that a new cyclone wire fence had been erected, and a big sign stating “DANGER, Unexploded Ordinance”  met our eyes.
I peered through the  fence and my jaw dropped, for there I was, staring at the very lagoon  that I had seen from the air. Giant waves crashed mightily on the huge rocky cliffs facing the ocean. The view was just stunningly beautiful, and I had to fight the urge to violate the big sign, roll up my jeans and wade into the clear blue waters.
Time stood still and only the clicking of shutters were heard after we found strategic spots to capture one of Tinian’s most beautiful treasures through our lenses — the hidden cove of Unai Chiget.
As tempted as you may be to visit the place, the area is restricted. For now, take a look at some of the photos I posted at http://www.facebook.com/#!/album.php?fbid=10150113615129858&id=596639857&aid=286092.
This article first appeared HERE

Brief respite at Chamoru Park

ROTA — The huge latte stones and the black and white sign board bearing the words “Chamoru Ancestral Park” caught my attention the first time I drove past this site on my way to Songsong from Sinapalo some weeks back, and I immediately made a U-turn to explore the place.

Parking my rented car at the roadside, I surveyed the surroundings and gingerly picked my way toward the latte stones. The place was deserted.
Except for the rumbling of the giant waves on the rocky cliffs some meters away and the occasional chirping of birds, total silence reigned.
I first thought the place was a sacred burial ground and I had no right to be there. Huge rusty chains fenced the sides of the park. Curiosity, however, got the best of me and I took step after cautious step around, pausing to take photos of anything and everything while trying to shake off the eerie feeling that someone or something was looking at me and whatever or whoever it was would spring at me anytime. It was just past 2 p.m. and I was too old to be scared in broad daylight.
As if in some slow-motion movie, I picked my way around the well-manicured grass, stopping now and then to run a hand at some of the meticulously arranged stone formations and all the while looking beyond my shoulder to make sure I was really alone.
I made my way to the wooden cottages near the sea, almost dropping my cameras when I backed against a post and came face to face with a white coconut husk mask hanging from it.
Stepping a few paces away, I collected my breath, turned toward the sea and simply gaped at the spectacular view. Watching miles and miles of blue water stretching out to eternity and huge waves chasing each other in an endless race toward the sharp cliffs bordered by white wooden railings was a sight to behold. I forgot my fears and simply gaped and took photos and wished that I could stay there longer.
The 28,420-sq. meter Chamoru Ancestral Park, which I learned is owned and maintained by Matias and Mercedes Taisacan, is just one of the charms that win over anyone who visits Rota. The Taisacans also run a family-owned museum containing pre and post World War II relics.
If you are planning a trip to Rota, don’t miss the chance to hang out for sometime at this wonderful spot located directly across from the Marianas Trench Cave Museum on your way to Songsong. For more information, call 532-0078. (This article was first published HERE)

Tinian’s suicide cliffs revisited

THE noonday heat beating mercilessly did not spoil my excitement as I and two photographer buddies headed toward one of Tinian’s famous historical spots a couple of weeks ago.
I had been to Suicide Cliff of Tinian several times before for the past three years, but on each visit, the spectacular panorama never fails to take my breath away.
The place was completely deserted and it was as though we had stepped into a place from the past, with only the Japanese, Korean and Okinawan markers and monuments standing still as silent witnesses to our intrusion.
Dried flowers and a half-burned candle in front of one of the Korean monuments took my attention for a few minutes, the remnants of an offering probably left by some family members of those who were long dead. About 5,000 Korean civilians were reported to have died in the Marianas during  World War II. Family members and some peace organizations have erected the monuments to honor the dead.
For the next 30 minutes, nothing was heard except for the strong gust of the wind and the clicking of shutters as we three were lost in our own worlds, busily capturing everything on the lens.
A few meters away from the monuments, an unobstructed view of the huge waves crashing on the unforgiving rocks hundreds of feet below, the lush foliage on the cliff sides and the deep blue sea stretching out to forever never fail to entice any visitor to gaze in wonder at the spectacular view of this historical spot that gets thousands of visits from tourists from all over the world each year.
It is hard to imagine that over 60 years ago, the place became the focus of unspeakable horror as the foaming waters turned red with blood as thousands of Japanese civilians and military who believed the propaganda that the American soldiers would torture them chose to jump off from the cliff rather than surrender.
Over six decades have passed and the horror of the mass suicide may have faded and its memories documented on the pages of history, but try visiting the Tinian Suicide Cliff today. The beauty of the place cannot blot out the horrifying event and you can’t help but shiver even in broad daylight.s
This article was first published HERE