Trekking on Edge

A TREK to Naftan Point was not on my mind when I joined a group of six others on a late Saturday afternoon. We were in the parking lot of American Memorial parking lot flipping coins to decide where to go for a shooting adventure when I remembered the Rabbit Hole in Naftan. I had only seen pictures of the place but had’t been there yet.

Without hesitation, we boarded two cars and off we went to Saipan’s southernmost tip. Turning at the intersection of Obyan Beach, we began driving on an unfamiliar rough road and ended in someone’s driveway. First try. We went back and followed another road, this time much smaller and rougher than the first one, and ended up on a small clearing with barely enough space for the cars. We tried again and finally found the right road — a tree-lined single lane grassy road that went narrow and narrower as we inched deeper into a jungle of tangan-tangan.

We reached a point where Mervin and Tony had to go down and start clearing protruding tree branches so we could drive through. It was agonizing to hear every squeak and scrape of the branches and shrubs under and on the sides of the car. I was just waiting for the final thud that would make us stuck in that jungle. It went on for the next half a mile or so as we plodded on, finally reaching a small clearing to park our cars.

Our trip was not over yet. Carting our heavy cameras and tripods, we slowly inched our way in the jungle — this time parting thick shrubs with our hands and ducking under roots and branches and avoiding one of the hundreds of spider webs along the way.

Emerging into the open, we followed pale pink ribbons tied to waist-high shrubs as we looked for the Rabbit Hole. 

The sun was relentlessly unforgiving, beating down on us who had no shelter. Groping our way along the cliff and finding secure handholds and footholds was a real challenge. One wrong step could send us hurtling down into the rocks and the churning waters below.

We reached a cliffside where a spectacular panorama awaited us. Way down below and nestled between sharp cliffs was a cove with a small flat surface but with rugged edges resembling a stage. It was mesmerizing to watch huge waves crash on the “stage,” before rolling back to the ocean in rivulets.

I was too engrossed taking photos and video I did not notice Mervin making calls on his cellphone. We were lost. We were not supposed to be on that dangerous cliffline.

The sun was beginning to set, and we had to head back. I did not relish the idea of getting stuck in a jungle at night and share my blood with thousands of mosquitoes. None of us was prepared for that trek — we were wearing too comfortable sandals, carrying too much gear and were mentally conditioned to shoot photos in friendlier and nearer areas.

We failed to find our destination, and Tony ended up with a torn eyebrow after hitting a protruding tree branch. Our cars suffered a hundred or so minor scratches but we got the photos we wanted, and the adventure we did not plan.

The Rabbit Hole, will still be there, somewhere, next time.

First published at the Marianas Variety

Secret cove beyond the rocks and waves

 BELOW the rugged cliffs and ledges and beyond the rocky shoreline of Marine Beach at the eastern coast of Saipan is a cave-like spot that would catch the eye of adventurers.
I’ve been to Marine Beach several times before but did not think that behind the huge rocks is a cove perfect for a photo shoot, until a week ago.
The small cove is concealed and you won’t even know it’s there. The tide was out when I and a couple of buddies waded through ankle-deep water at the very right end of the beach facing the water. Picking our way through the slippery and moss-covered rocks was a challenging feat, especially if you are protecting your camera but the hardship made it all the more appealing.
When we reached the very end of the first rock, it seemed like a dead end and there was no more way out except to wade in deeper water and go around but to the left was a small narrow enclosure—so narrow that we have to crawl our way out. The opening led to another section like a small rocky chamber which goes all the way up to the top of the cliff. Direct sunlight poured down from the small opening above, making the area look like a small grotto.
Framed by the huge rocks, the view from the enclosure was stunning. You can see the huge sprays of water on the cliffs at the far end of the beach, a contrast to the soothing splashes of the rivulets flowing around the toward the enclosure we were in.

There was more beyond, but we dare not venture further. It was too dangerous. A few meters from where we were, huge waves go up as high as the cliffs and roll back to the sea with such force that threaten to carry off anyone and anything in its path.
For a moment, everything suddenly seemed to come to a standstill and suddenly, the tide was slowly coming in. We hurried back to the shore before our entrance point will be filled with water.
I’ve seen what Marine Beach was like during high tide and during times when the wind blew so strong that standing on your feet became almost impossible. I’ve witnessed members of the rescue team holding on to ropes and fighting a losing battle the strong current in search of a lost fisherman. It was hard to imagine that the peaceful and still beach we were on that Saturday noon was the same beach that shows unimaginable fury at times.
Marine Beach is an ideal place to spend a day out. The place has picnic shelters and tables, restrooms, an outdoor shower and BBQ pits and a long stretch of white albeit rocky beach line but the waters speak differently.
There is none of the gentle splashing of the waves on the shores to lull you to relaxation there but waves so strong and huge that could sweep you out to the sea any minute.
And oh, if you dare adventure to that secret cove beyond the rocks, make sure it is low tide and as the locals say, ask permission from the spirits of the land and water first before venturing there.